Kolwezi, nearly deserted streets on a workday afternoon. |
We spent the next few weeks resting with the French Family in Kolwezi. This was, and still is, the town near the huge copper mine that has been the apple of discord in Zaire. It is supposed to account for 50% of the Congo's exports and 8% of the world's copper. It is also supposed to have been the source of the Uranium used in one of the atomic bombs dropped in Japan. More recently it is the source of different rare minerals that are used in cellphone industry.
Kolwezi,
Zaire, Monday 4th April
(DAN) Today was busy. The “workers” started arriving before 0700, so Mr.
French did not find time to eat breakfast until 1030. I spread the vermiculite
insulation out on tin roofing to dry which took a while, and then I took a
steel brush to the hot water tank. Then at 10:00 I took the Land Rover over to
get gasoline. Of course, I had forgotten the money so had to come back. There
is only one pump in town (4 empty gas stations). They can only give you 20
liters at a time, and at Z 1250 per
liter, that is either $10 a gallon or $2 a gallon depending on where you change
your money. We marveled at the “moderate traffic” in Kinshasa
and Kananga,
but here the streets are nearly deserted. There are no motorcycles or
even mopeds. We understand that the going price for day laborers here is Z 5
per day in the country and Z 10 or a lucky Z 20 in the city. When a liter of gas
can cost as much as two days’ wages, you bet it pays to walk. This means that
the 5-day-old bread we saw sold on the river boat could have cost as much as a
day’s wage. Things simply are not rosy here in Rich Zaire.
Next I
drove the Frenches over so they could buy a big load of sugar and milk (1000
lbs. of each) for themselves, the Enrights, and the project for malnourished
children that Mrs. French runs. Helena spent most of the day making curtain
rings out of aluminum for the dispensary that Mrs. French runs. She is also in
charge of a wholesale drug supplying system for the entire district.
In the
afternoon I drove Ngoy, the mechanic here, over to the “popular” part of town
to find a welder for the heater tank. We drove around an hour and a half, and
then lacked Z 5 of having enough to pay the man when we found him. Back across
the valley up into the mine-European sector of town. I was burning at having to
make the second trip in the day due to carelessness, and then when I got to the
top of the hill, I got pulled over by a military policeman. He pulled out a
little book and asked me if I could read the letters under a well-known symbol,
“Access Interdit” (Do not enter). He
jumped into the car and said, “I’m going to have to take you in.”
First
he made me back up to show me, sure enough, there was the sign, and he
had been waiting for someone like me to come along. As far as I could figure,
they had taken a random city block, and around that particular block there is
one-way traffic. The street goes from two lanes to one lane and back again.
Fortunately, I had my international driver’s license which kept him occupied.
Then I told him that I had just arrived Friday, I worked for the Mission Methodiste and missed the sign
because I was concentrating on the terrible road conditions. Our incredible
good fortune came through again, and when we got to the center of town, he
pointed to another soldier and said, “I’ll get out by my friend”, and gave me
back my license. All he said more was, “Next time, etc.......”
The
drive into shanty town really shook me in itself. Mr. French mentioned that one
reason youth choirs are so popular (65 strong in a tiny church) is that
everyone is basically unemployed. I was approached by the youth today asking if
I had work “in my store”. Then it hits you as you go through that neighborhood.
Now, Helena and I have gone on foot through many a poor neighborhood,
but I think it is different when you are in a vehicle. People instead of
looking curious looked hungry and mad.
I think
this is related to what we have observed to be the two main topics of conversation
here in Zaire, the amount of corruption at all levels and the amount of theft
at all levels. Or maybe it is corruption at the top levels and theft at the
bottom levels; it is all really the same thing. You have on one side the Greek commerçant where we bought the milk and
sugar, who left in his 1982 Mercedes Benz. On the other side you have men
making $.20 per day or who are unemployed.
At
supper the talk centered around the U. N. High Commission of Refugees’ attempt
to dispense “relief” here after the war. The cases of medicine that
disappeared, trucks stripped, donated products appearing for sale, etc., etc.
Enough to make one cry. Some of the material
was given to the Methodist church, and even some of it disappeared or caused
friction when it was not immediately distributed among the Methodist community
regardless of need.
Much of
the theft is attributed to soldiers as the money that is intended for them gets
skimmed off before it reaches them. They are left to fend for themselves.
Kolwezi, Zaire, Tuesday, 5 April, 1983
(HELENA)
Yesterday I spent some time on making curtain rings by wrapping aluminum wire
round and round a metal tube. Today I spent the whole day on those curtains. I
had gotten the wire by unraveling a 2 meter length of thick cable left over
from the infamous Inga-Shaba electrification project (see description farther
down), so this morning I cut apart the little springs I had made yesterday!
That is the most exercise my fingers have gotten in a long time! We had calculated
that we would need 96 curtain rings, so you can imagine it took me a while. In
the afternoon I started sewing the rings onto the curtains. The curtains are
for the Methodist clinic across the way. They already had used them, but since
the heading had been slipped onto the rod, they remained permanently closed.
This bothered Mrs. French, if no one else, so they took them down, washed them,
and handed them over to me.
Dan
spent another rather frustrating day trying to fix the water heater. He is
learning a lot about that sort of thing. We are just glad to be given things to
do. I myself am getting a bit of cooking experience. The Frenches get up very
early, so breakfast is always ready, lunch is prepared by their cook, Levi,
but Tove French asked me to do what I would like for supper for all of us. It
is mostly a matter of putting out left-overs, but I still have to decide
whether to follow Mother’s or Grandmother’s dictums (i.e. Grandmother, heat each little dab up separately; Mother, throw
them all together and make one casserole: Ed).
We have been collecting letters since we have been here, assuming that
Frenches send their mail through people going to the U. S. A., the way everyone
else does. But no, today we learned a whole new system, Gecamine, the mining
company, used to send its mail in a pouch to be mailed in Belgium. The post
office here did not like that because of all the money they were being deprived of, so they sent a
postal employee to Gecamine Now people
buy Zairois stamps, but twice a week Gecamine sends it directly to Belgium.
Anyway, that way the mail is much safer and faster than through the main post
office. I guess it is only for Gecamine workers, but the Frenches are able to use the system,
too. So, our mail should get to you fine, but your mail will probably take at
least 3 or 4 weeks to arrive
It started raining right at the time Dan and Mrs. French were going to
take the mail, and it continued all through the night. Sounds mighty nice from
inside this nice snug house. The house is nestled, along with that of the disctrict superintendent and a big storehouse,
in among tall eucalyptus trees. Besides those there is a bamboo thicket right
across the drive, the yard is covered with grass, and they have really nice
shrubs in front of and behind the house. When we arrived last week, they were
having a straw-thatched shelter built for breakfast or visiting. It is finished
now and looks quite picturesque with a beautiful poinsettia tree framing it
from behind.
French's house in the eucalyptus grove. |
Kolwezi, Zaire, Wednesday,
April 6, 1983
(DAN) About the “Infamous Inga-Shaba Project:” As I understand it, it
was a one billion dollar plus project to carry an enormous amount of
electricity from a dam on the Congo below Kinshasa to this mineral-rich Shaba
(Katanga) region. Uncle Sam
was to put up most of the money and “Papa Mobutu” the rest. Sounds as if it
could zip right past the most critical opponents. Well-- #l, Shaba is energy
independent and has been since before independence. There are two hydroelectric
dams on the upper Zaire that supply the Kolwezi mine complex alone , and two
others down by Lubumbashi. They would like to refine all of their own copper
and cobalt and need more than they presently have. Rather than build another
dam down here or along the Tanzania border, Mobutu insisted that this be
connected to the Inga dams 1700 Kms away. Candidly, it is so he can have his
finger on “the switch”. For reasons which probably only Price can understand,
they are transporting the electricity as High Voltage Direct Current which
means that they cannot possibly drop current anywhere along the way.
Even though 4 of Zaire’s largest 7 cities (including Kitwit, Kananga and
Kamina that now depend on “generators”) are not within reach of hydroelectric
facilities. We first began hearing of this project from citizens of those towns.
# 2, Even though the project was finished 4 years late, Papa Mobutu
still has not paid his share which is why the current after being tested was
shut off by the Swedish sub-contractors. Rumor has it that some of the 8000
towers have found their way to the markets of Lubumbashi and Kananga in the
form of push carts and metal beds. At
last a successful trickle-down project!
Until a few months ago there was an entire U.S. community here in Kolwezi,
and the general feeling as things are being packed up is that Mobutu is just
holding out because sooner or later the U.S. will just up and pay the rest.
Why? Because most of the world’s cobalt is in this much-fought-over corner of
Africa. “We” apparently want Mr. Mobutu to control the switch rather than
(horrors) some sort of democratic government. You know the saying, “He may be an
SOB, but he’s our SOB.”
Those who lose sleep over the tax money spent on arms can sleep a little
better knowing that some goes to development as well.
All this reminds me that while we were in Kananga I read A Nation of
Sheep by Lederer of The Ugly American fame. It is AMAZING the things
that he was decrying in 1960 (mainly about Korea, Taiwan, and Viet Nam) in our
foreign relations, and now we have EXACTLY the same problems!
Today was a Red Letter Day as a shipment arrived from Nigeria. In excess
of 28 letters (if you count the letters from other people forwarded by you all,
around 35). I took the afternoon off from the hot water heater and simply
wallowed in all the news: uplifting letters, down-pulling clippings of Wildcat
basketball. Thanks all.
I spent the morning getting the heater back on the wall and getting it
connected to the utilities. Funny that last word rhymes with “futilities” which
all my efforts turned out to be when it was all assembled. It waited until it
was completely filled with water, then resumed dripping.
Helena did not take much time off to read and got all of the curtains
ready to put up. As she mentioned, she has been doing the cooking at the
evening meals.
First thing in the morning I helped lay out the base line for the garden
they are setting up on the property. I wish I could have taken moving pictures
of what went on as well. As soon as the string was down, they measured out a
wide bed and carefully cultivated till the “dirt was moved real good”. Then the
two men walked over to what I was thought was a big, ugly, wicked
pig weed (Ed: sounds like tame lamb’s
quarter) and began to plant it carefully. (They probably weed out the
volunteer spinach.) That is, they took the seed heads and scattered them out
around.
For lunch we had the company of an aging Danish couple (late seventies)
who are apparently long-standing evangelists in this area and Zambia. They
belong to the Pentecostal church. They were very interesting, but we had some
awkward moments. We were talking about our travels, and he said, “Oh yes, join
the army and see the world! Well, not
exactly… Oh, he understood, “You are in the army of Jesus Christ!” (squirm).
On the other hand there is a LOT to be admired in a couple that age
hitting the road constantly, showing their movies, living here in Zaire in places
missionaries half their age declare it is impossible to live.
Kolwezi,
Zaire, Thursday, 7 April, 1983
(HELENA)
Yesterday I finally finished ironing the medical center curtains, and this
morning Mrs. French had me “present” them to the man in charge.
We started the day by going (Dan, Mrs. French, and I) down to the
authorities to register. I gather we were supposed to do it the day we arrived,
but we did not know that. They really surprised us with their requirements, so
naturally Dan had to return later with two photos (the nerve!) and money. While
he did that, I went over to the Gecamine hospital with Mama Mutambuela. She is
in charge of the program for undernourished children at the medical center,
and she and her 4 children came to lunch on Sunday (her husband is in
Lubumbashi furthering his studies). Yesterday she came by to invite me to go to
see the Gecamines hospital, so I accepted, albeit a bit nervously because she
tends to be impatient with my halting attempts at French.
She went to get some TB medicine for a little girl for whom they are
providing food, but she mainly wanted me to see the babies in the maternity
ward. She was not able to get permission to visit, so we walked around part of
the rest of the hospital. IMPRESSIVE! It
has at least 400 beds, is spotless, and everything is in excellent shape. At
the most there are 2 European doctors there, so it is all run by Zairois professionals.
We then crossed the street to the exclusive Gecamines clinic where the
rich employees are catered to. We did
get to see 4 babies there (compared to the 40 we might have seen at the
hospital; 10 babies are born per day) and stayed there AGES talking to Mama
Mutambuelas’s buddies. It was all in Swahili, so I just let my attention wander.
Dan went back with the Land Rover to do business with his “favorite”
Greek merchant. He finds it a bit distasteful the way they are so obviously out
for as much money as possible. He picked up sacks of milk and sugar, available
because their ice cream factory is out of business.
(DAN) Before it got dark, the Hammers arrived on their way through to
their station. They have another of these South African Land Cruiser pick-ups,
diesel, with the steering wheel on the right. VERRRY NICE. The Frenches were
invited to High Mass and a reception for a nun who was taking her vows, so we
(Helena) ended up getting supper for the four of us.
The Hammers are from California,
and he works with an ag school at Mwanza. This is a “station” about 15 km from
the Zaire river, northeast of Kamina. They are pretty isolated (ten hours drive
from Luena) and one neat thing is that they get all their electricity from
solar panels. They started out with one small unit that they brought in a
suitcase. The panel, connected to a motorcycle battery gave them electricity
for four fluorescent lights and never ran out on them, even in the rainy
season. It cost $500 which is less than the cost of a good small generator. Now
they have three of these small panels and can do a lot with them. I do not think we have fully described the
problems involved with acquiring fuel here in Zaire. In any case this saves fuel
and adds years onto one’s life!
During the afternoon a man came to the door saying that there was a
message for Mr. French at the train station. We drove out there and found that
the hospital truck from Kananga which had been on the road for three days now
had finally broken down at Mutchatcha . This is a town about 160 km down the
railroad, so they had gotten permission to use the company phone line.
The truck driver wanted Mr. French to send the Land Rover out to TOW the
loaded truck the 160 kms to Kolwezi.
Instead Mr. French decided to send Citoyennes
Ilunga and Ngoy and me out in the Land Rover to get the broken piece and return.
The road is in reputedly bad shape, so this would take all day.
Kolwezi, Zaire, Friday, 8 April, 1983
We did not get off till 0845 because here there are SO many threads to
sort and cut. We had to gather every imaginable tool, enough fuel for any
surprise, insurance papers, personal papers, and a new one, Ordre de Mission. This is a piece of
paper signed by the District Superintendent and the District Missionary saying
that the undermentioned are out on the road in the vehicle described for such
and such a purpose. That in itself took half an hour to compose and type. I
guess that this is designed to keep at bay even the most curious military
patrols. Let me tell you, I was more than a bit apprehensive when I drove out
of here. I was surely glad that Ilunga and Ngoy were along.
We just met one patrol well out of Kolwezi, but they were civil enough.
Ilunga did the talking, and I shook a lot of hands and wished a lot of Bon jours. They even guided us past two
other trucks and got us on our way. The word here for “White Man” is wazungu, and it says nothing
about skin color; it means “important man” (the same thing they call chiefs
here) and they really bend over backward. I have even been called the
proverbial “Bwana” a couple of times;
it is Swahili.
We had only driven 90 minutes when we met a white Mercedes Benz truck
that turned out to be the Kapanga truck. They had been able to repair it. It was trucking right along, so we just
picked up two young women from the passengers, turned around, and followed the
truck back to Kolwezi. The road was pretty terrible, but as it is the route we
shall be taking on our “big trip”, you will hear more about it.
Miss Ruth (the Landrover) and the countryside near Kolwezi |
The countryside is very beautiful, another variation of the rolling
savannah and open forest. We are at nearly identical altitude and latitude
south of the equator as Jos, Nigeria is north, but it is much more humid here;
consequently there is more abundant vegetation. The “new” feature in this area
is the quantity of the hugest ant hills yet punching up through the grass all
over. There is also a plant that looks and acts like sunflowers, yellow, tall,
and lining the roads.
We bought four huge sacks of charcoal on the way back, three for the
district superintendent. Because of the scarcity of fuel, a bag of charcoal
which costs Z 25 just 20 kilometers or so out of town costs Z 75 in Kolwezi.
Nearly all of the cooking here is done with charcoal.
Mrs. French has a good big electric stove, nice kitchen, and a
refrigerator that works. The hot water heater now works as well, with only an
occasional drip. It will last until they can get another up from South Africa.
South Africa is turning out to be the industrial supplier for this part of
Africa as Argentina and Brazil were to Bolivia.
Helena and I spent much of the afternoon packaging seeds. Mr. French has
a 50 gallon drum full of garden seeds. They are packaged in cans of 500 grams,
and we have been weighing them and packaging for distribution on the trip we
are to take. Some seeds are donated from Nebraska, others from the High
Commission on Refugees. He sells these
packages weighing 5 grams for $ .25 apiece. Part of this goes to pay
shipping and handling, part to pay for the fuel used in the distribution. He
says that on principle he always sells them (rather than giving) because if
not, people ask for way more than they need and either resell or waste a lot.
Cabbages here go for around $ .30 (Z6) so one cabbage will pay for a pack of
approximately 700 seeds (I counted). I think that seed distribution must be one
of the more important things one can do for development around here. Something to think forward to. We have
packaged onions, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, carrots, eggplant and tomatoes.
Several times we have been served a food here that consisted of cooked,
shredded manioc leaves. It is very good eating, and has 14% protein
compared to el zilcho in the tuber itself. Wonder if the same can be done in South
America. Helena also spent a lot of time in the kitchen. She and Mrs. French are baking in preparation
for the visiting firemen who are coming out Sunday, but that is her story.
(HELENA) During the morning I accompanied Mrs. French to the weekly
weighing of the malnourished children. I would say there were about 20 of them,
some of them in fair shape and really only needing worm treatment. Two of them, however, were pale with
swollen eyes and feet. I gather that they probably will not make it. Mama
Mutambuela did some of the weighing and the translating of Mrs. French’s
instructions into Swahili. Another woman did most of the weighing and handed
out the day’s measures of powdered milk and bulgur. I just sat there and
watched. One of the main ways that Mrs. French checked them was to rub their
skin between her fingers. When it was loose-fitting, the child was in pretty
bad shape. After that was over, they went next door to where they prepare the
food and each mother feeds her child.
Kolwezi, Zaire, Saturday, 9 April, 1983
(HELENA) In order to get a good start on preparations for our trip next
Tuesday, Dan and I washed our clothes. We had a bit of trouble with the washing
machine (the fan belt kept breaking where it had been mended) and we had to
wring out by hand, but it was still much faster and easier than doing all by
hand. The rest of the day was spent madly measuring seeds into envelopes and
sealing them. Dan did a lot of that; I was back in the kitchen making the
cereal we shall always associate with Kolwezi, oatmeal mixed with butter and
brown sugar and dried in the oven. That finished, I started in to ironing all
of the clothes we had washed, and when I say “all,” I mean “ALL!” There is some kind of fly here that lays its eggs in
the clothes, and if they are left un-ironed, they somehow get into the skin and
irritate it. So here we are with ironed sheets, towels, tee shirts, underwear,
etc. It takes time, but I sort of enjoy it.
Mrs. French spent all day getting ready for “Bishop’s” arrival tomorrow.
They think pretty highly of him, but frankly, I think everyone carries his rank
too far. Why should everything be just so for someone who is, after all, just
another fellow Christian?
It had been a tiring day for all of us, so it was doubly sweet to “inaugurate” the
gazebo by having a leisurely cup of coffee with cake in the middle of the
afternoon. The termites have already in one week made significant inroads into
the wood and bamboo supports. Aside from that it was a very pleasant place to
relax, and it was a real treat for all four of us. However once that hour was
over, Mr. French was off and running again.
Kolwezi, Zaire, Sunday 10th of April, 1983
(DAN) The day started early. Stan Ridgeway (son of Canadian Baptist
missionaries to Bolivia) was flying the Bishop in, and Mr. French had the radio
on at 0615. The inauguration service was to be at 0830, and it is an hour’s
flight from Lubumbashi, so they had to get an early start. Stan “came on”
at 0630, but they did not leave till
0700. Now this may seem irrelevant to y’all, but when you have your bed in the
middle (actually next door) of an airport control room and you are trying to
get another hour’s sleep it all becomes very significant.
Everything was a bustle getting breakfast ready to send to the airport
for ten people and getting Mr. French off at 0730. The Land Rover seats six people (two more in
back) and there were to be five people on the plane, but six persons piled in
to go meet them: the district superintendent, his wife, his secretary,
the school superintendent, the pastor of the church being honored, and, of
course, Mr. French. By this time we were beginning to realize that there is a
bit more ceremony surrounding the bishops here in Zaire.
The program for the day is the inauguration of the electrical
installation at the Manika Church. It is the largest (Methodist) church in
Kolwezi with more than 1000 members. Manika is the part of the city that used
to be the African township (a la Soweto) before independence, and it is now
the popular (populous slum) part of the city. Mr. French considers this
event significant because the installation is the first thing of its kind to be
done without missionary help, either financial or technical. The church is
located pretty far from the end of the city electrical installation, so the
whole thing was going to cost 12,000 Zaires, the equivalent of 600 days of pay to day laborers. For four or
five years they kept asking for outside help, and finally while the Frenches
were on furlough in the States, they got organized and raised the money among
themselves. Today the bishop flew out to inaugurate it.
Mr. French took the people from the plane directly to Manika, then came
over to pick us up. By the time we arrived, things were beginning to get
underway. They had erected a canopy out from the front of the church with 8
truck tarpaulins. This provided shade for the three choirs, the honored
visitors, and the stage.
The first event was the processional of the choirs. Two mixed youth choirs of about 35 persons
each and one women’s choir of the same size filed slowly across the area with
the rhythmic step we have previously described. One of the youth choirs had
black turtle neck (!) uniforms, and the women had shirts made out of blue
material and had yellow head wraps (the colors of the women’s societies here).
Then came the procession of people who were to sit up on the stage. The young assistant pastor was in a
black robe (U.S.-type choir) with a white stole. Next came the pastor and the
district superintendent in bright green robes of the same type with bright
yellow stoles; then came the bishop himself with a long, flowing robe, white on
the outside and crimson on the inside. He had a white, hooded stole that had
“Alleluya” embroidered in red down the back. In his right hand he carried a
silver and gold (colored?) staff that is a symbol of authority here in Zaire.
(Mobutu frequently has his picture taken with such a staff --the handle is a
bird’s head--in his hand) There was a man in the congregation with one as well;
he turned out to be the chief of the Lundas in this area.
Now the ceremony was all in Swahili, so I could not tell you much about
the contents, but the choir music continues to please and amaze us. We are
beginning to recognize some songs we have heard before, so the repertoire might
not be that large, but each one is executed with perfect precision, in full
harmony and full confidence.
The offering procession --where everyone files past two buckets on
stands--lasted 25 minutes in itself. The service was three hours long. Of
course as in Aymara, we chime right in singing from the hymnal as if we
understood every word. There was one hymn that we sang all four verses three
times each. This was toward the end of the service when “it was plugged in” and
the string of colored lights hanging from the canvas came to life. About that
time Helena noticed that the hymn in its original language, English, was titled
“Send the Light”.
All of the pastors present (from all over Kolwezi and visitors) had on
black shirts and clerical collars. A few of them had the “choir” robes as well,
two reds and one bright blue. I wonder where they picked up the use of the
clerical collars. After the service they
had soft drinks for some of the honored people, and after an hour’s wait, they
had the big meal. We had been hearing
about this meal for some time because they asked Mrs. French to make cup cakes
as dessert for the Table de Honor
which was to seat 20 persons. These twenty were to be served very special,
expensive food. We were originally not supposed to be in the chosen twenty, but
somehow ended up being shown that way. There were about 200 other guests at two
long tables that had regular fare, big bowls of fufu (different name here) and the manioc leaf sauce along with
fish. That food was already on the table and those guests were in place when
the Table de Honor filed in.
Perhaps the final touch was that they brought in a 24-inch TV set and
video equipment, and all present watched a video copy of the Hollywood
production of “Sodom and Gomorrah” dubbed in French, of course.
It had been arranged that the bishop and a busload of guests were going
to tour the Gecamine mines and establishment; however the bishop had to return
early on the plane, but the busload decided to go anyway. The bus was a
90-seater Blue Bird similar to the one we rode in from Luena to Kolwezi. It was
completely filled with those who had been invited to eat and, as we found out
later, were delegations from each of the churches in Kolwezi.
As soon as we got going, the entire bus picked up and sang in full
harmony, so we had a rollicking, if dusty, afternoon. Our first stop was a
staging area, high between the two open pits where earth moving machinery
stopped for some reason. These are caterpillar vehicles on the same order as
dump trucks, but designed to carry 100 or 150 tons at a time. The tires I stood
by were about 10 feet in diameter and 4 feet thick. The cab, or should I say
“bridge”, could only be reached by a 25 foot ladder up the front of the beast.
The entire tour was in Swahili, so we had to settle for visual explications.
Next we drove part way down into one of the pits. By pits I mean man-made canyons several miles
across and maybe three hundred meters deep. Even the aforementioned vehicles
looked tiny crawling around in that immensity. They are retooling to change to
underground mining precisely because of the impossible amounts of earth that
have to be moved to get to rich layers of copper. Even now, with the world
economy as it is, the mine is making money, and Kolwezi, alone, accounts for 8
% of the world’s copper and half of Zaire’s foreign exchange.
Gecamines equipment, ca 1978. From web. |
Gecamines strip mine, 1978. from web. |
Our next stop was the refinery, I guess, an enormous building that
housed 8 huge turbines which somehow crush the rocks. We were allowed to walk
on several levels of ramps through the building past endless vats with a gray
bubbling liquid. We were surprised to see some of our companions sticking their
hands into this substance. We hope to get another tour of the establishment in
French or English, and we shall be able to describe it all better. The sad
thing about this colorful, eventful day is that our camera got left at home.
(For shame!) The story of our lives.
On the way home the bus took the “scenic route” of Kolwezi and dropped
all of the delegations off at their respective churches. It was dusk by the
time we arrived home.
We had an extremely pleasant evening with the Frenches over pizza and
talked about everything for about three hours. They have witnessed a lot of
Zaire’s history these last 31 and 26 years. One amazing thing they mentioned
was that all during the Kolwezi massacre (ten days) (see previous post) workers
continued to report for work and the mine operated through the entire problem.
The guerrillas did not even attempt to sabotage the mine. They wanted it
working when they were the ones in charge.
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